1. Appearance:
Original paint, stickers, mufflers. Do you know what an original should look like? Custom everything is nice but not worth a pinch of the proverbial in the used market.

Bikes that are red or black will resell easily. If it has aftermarket mufflers and the like, ask if the original bits come with the bike. An original bike is always worth more when you go to sell it.

Look for cancer: rust on the frame, corroded alloy bits, faded grey switchgear, yellowed screen, cracked and dull paint. Stand at the back of the bike and sight along the centre - does the fairing line up with the steering head? If not, it's had a big shunt and hasn't been fixed properly. Do the colours along the bodywork match?

2. Fit:
This is a good time to take a breather and sit quietly on the bike. Does it fit? Can you reach the ground easily? Is your pillion happy on the back seat? Can you get it on and off the stands? Can the levers or even seat height be adjusted to fit you better?

3. Rego:
How much is left? In some cases this could be a $600 observation.

4. Provenance:
Do the engine and frame match each other? This is an issue with classic Brit bikes where the frame and engine numbers should often match. And with some Japanese classics - does that CB1100R have the real powerplant in the frame or the easily-swapped CB900 engine which looks much the same? With the former it is a desirable motorcycle; with the latter it's next to worthless.

Check the engine/chassis/rego numbers with your local registration authority before handing over the cheque - it could be stolen.

5. Service history:
If it has one, it's worth money in the bank. Look for dealer stamps, or the next-best which is a history recorded by the owner.