Drinking and riding don’t mix

 

There have been many tests on the way alcohol and various other drugs affect reflexes, coordination, depth perception and risk taking behaviour. The results are always the same, increased risk due to reduced capability. Keep in mind that it is not just your own mistakes that become dangerous.When you’ve been drinking, you may not be able to react properly to others’ mistakes either. And the ride most worth doing, is the one you do well. It’s worth remembering that alcohol has an effect on you at much lower levels than the legal blood alcohol limit and even two drinks can take you to 0.05.In the period 1997 to 2001, 20 per cent of the motorcyclists killed in NSW had alcohol in their blood.Next time your ride takes you to a pub, consider a soft drink instead.

Alcohol: less skill, more risk.

It’s worth keeping in mind that a motorcycle casualty is four times as likely to be fatal if the rider has an illegal blood alcohol level.

Most riders learn to ride a motorcycle on something smaller than a GoldWing. Assuming you are thinking of moving up to a bigger bike, these points may help you enjoy the move.

• No matter how many miles you have behind you on a smaller bike, don't assume you can ride a bigger one on the street without practicing in a parking lot first. Moving up to a bigger bike is almost like starting over.

• If you can flatfoot one side and have 'ball of the foot' control on both sides of a big bike, you can probably ride it safely under most circumstances.  Most bikes can have their seats cut down about an inch to improve your ability to control it at the expense of some comfort.

• Before you take your big bike on the road for the first time, sit on it and learn where all the controls are, even the ones you don't think you will need (your 'mute' button, for example.) It can be so exciting to ride one of these beasts that should you forget to learn some of the basics early on, it may be too late when you're out there in traffic and too terrified to even move around on the seat.

• To get a big bike off the side stand when it is leaning so much you can't easily pick it up, grip the front brake and clutch levers securely (whether the engine is running or not) and push the bike FORWARD as you try to bring it upright in one smooth movement. (This modestly compresses the front suspension, making the bike a little shorter.)

• Just because it's big doesn't mean it won't lean smartly. If your engine will dependably carry you through a curve with power, you'll be able to lean a bigger bike just as much as a turn requires, with normal skills, at prudent speed. This is a matter of confidence and parking lot practice. You can control it through the foot brake and the clutch.

• If the wind seems to be buffeting a big bike more than the little bike you used to ride, try to relax and know that your wheels are securely under you. The weight of the big bike will tend to keep the rubber on the road in the absence of crisis braking, even if you have to lean. If you increase speed somewhat in a strong crosswind, this may help to give you stability (and will get you to the next stop a little sooner, where you can relax your pucker string for a while).

• You will soon get past the feeling that you are 'flying a 747' or that the big beast 'wants to go faster', although those are common reactions when you get on a bigger bike. Big bikes tend to have smoother engines and a somewhat different gear ratio from your smaller ride. Once you do get the hang of it, and after that magic 'click' in the mind that tells you you're really RIDING this thing, remember to relax and enjoy yourself -- and now and then, when you feel comfortable, to wave at your admirers!

• Park with your rear wheel to the curb. Most roads camber; that is, they slope down to the gutter. Also, most motorcycles have only got forward gears, so the engine can only help you pull away if you are facing in towards the centre of the road.

• Your tyres never sink into even the softest of ground, but metal stands can do so. Park on the sidestand. If you have the slightest worry about the surface (mud, soft tarmac, etc) you can put a 'foot' (plastic or metal plate, usually attached to a line for easy retrieval, and stored in a pocket on your bike when not in use), flat rock, wood or the ubiquitous flattened beer can (I mean "soft drink can", Officer) under the side stand in such a case. It's much harder to chock up both legs of a centrestand. Also, on the sidestand you are "three point stable" like a tripod, the centre stand only gives you "two point stability". And it's far easier to "fine tune" the position of a 'bike on the sidestand than it is to take it off the centre stand and start again.

• Similarly, always use the sidestand and a suitable 'foot' under the end of it when on trips. Even if the ground is rock hard when you park, rain or dew may soften it enough for the sidestand to dig in. And position the 'bike so that, if the stand sinks in despite your precautions, you will not be beneath the bike!

• Park at between 90 and 45 degrees to the flow of traffic (depending how wide the road is). Parking parallel to the flow of traffic makes the 'bike far less visible to other road users, without reducing the actual width all that much. If you can't park safely at 45 degrees, you probably shouldn't park there at all.

• Don't leave the 'bike parked with the engine running. If the road is so steep that you need to leave it in gear to stop it rolling, it is probably not the right place to leave it. (Remember; it is perfectly possible for an engine to "creep" past compression - so leaving it in gear does NOT make a good parking brake) If you have to park on a hill; park at 45 degrees to the road, with the rear tire downhill of the front and against the curb. And (unless you like the smell of tarmac) use the sidestand.

• Think before you park! Look at the ground (for the aforementioned mud or soft tarmac) and if you see a nail, don't park on it! If you see a "No Parking" sign or marking, consider parking elsewhere. If you see 'Brixton confetti' (broken car window) consider parking elsewhere. If you see half a U-Lock and the innards of a Yamaha ignition switch, do park elsewhere!

• If you have a choice of parking spaces (e.g.: the length of a 'bike bay), you should park: where the road is widest; furthest from any corner or junction; not under a tree; under a street lamp; next to a wider vehicle but not behind a vehicle that may have difficulty reversing and where the 'bike is easily seen (preferably by yourself or members of your household).

• Try to leave a considerate space for other road users ('cos they'll only try to move the 'bike if you don't). Never park in the middle of a gap that is "one and a half" cars long: it's rude and selfish. However, you should park in the middle of a gap that is only one car long, to indicate to car drivers that they shouldn't try to squeeze in.

• If you possibly can, whenever you do have to move the 'bike under your own steam, sit astride it. If you are walking alongside a 'bike and have to turn or brake it sharply, it can easily fall away from you. As the bulk of the 'bike itself prevents you placing your feet to brace yourself, this quickly leads to the embarrassing position of you lying on top of the 'bike while a passing mongrel throws a bucket of water over you.

• When you have to move a 'bike under muscle power, don't let the exertion make you forget your Roadcraft. In large fleets, up to 80% of accidents happen while parking. People relax and forget to concentrate at the end of a trip. Don't forget to check for other moving vehicles before pushing your 'bike across the road!